![]() ![]() I’d go through phases of B&W shooting, sometimes I’d shoot a couple of rolls when the day or circumstance allowed it, or when I had a nice old vintage camera to try out and then nothing for a year or four or more. Experimentation with Film stocks to me seems like a massive waste of time and effort – I cannot afford to waste Film and am not one to set up test subjects and then spend time with it all – yes, it’s a lack of patience and/or laziness, but I like photography as I enjoy it and only photograph something I want to and which gives me pleasure (hence I couldn’t ever be a paid wedding or event photographer as I’d get bored and impatient), anyway I was happy with the Rollei films so didn’t think much of it. ![]() Now Retro 80s is a tricky film to shoot – highlights can easily blow out and there’s a lot of contrast – but get it right and the results are lovely! What it lacks though is nice delicate tonality (400s obviously has more but still not perfect) so I’ve ever been put off from shooting various scenes to assess Film as I lacked experience with other films and also lacked the time and inclination to experiment. To cut a long story short I eventually settled on the Rollei Retro 80s and 400s – I have been very happy with the results and the price isn’t sky high as on Kodak, Fuji and Ilford (I formerly loved shooting Fuji Acros 100, Ilford FP4+ and Agfa APX 400 – but when prices started to rise I started using Agfafoto APX and then once upon a time about 12 or so years ago shot a roll of Rollei Retro 80s and used that (and the 400s) exclusively ever since. My go-to Colour was Kodak Ektachrome e100vs and when that was discontinued (I still have two precious rolls in the freezer for that next exotic trip abroad where I’ll shoot it carefully) I was bewildered and grudgingly had to use the various Fujichromes until Kodak released the regular Ektachrome, which though not perfect almost had the ‘look’ I like.īut with B&W there has always been a lot of choice and prices used to be quite low and very affordable. The threaded tubes inside an Emtek lock are machined brass.I’ve been shooting Film for a relatively long time but I’m quite cautious when shooting it, I have my comfort zone where I have my preferred Film and stick to it – reluctant to try anything else or explore. Spindles are spring-loaded "half-spindles" pre-installed into the base of each door handle.Įach Emtek Helios lever has a set screw which, when tightened, eliminates wobbling of the door handle. Latches are heavy-duty diecast construction with strong internal springs and solid brass nose bolts.Ī plastic bushing located in the joint between handle and rosette ensures a friction free wear surface - preventing metal from bearing on metal and provides smooth long-lasting operation.ĭoor handles are connected to the rosettes and backplates with a permanent clip. Normal use will produce natural relief of the oxidized finish and reveal rich highlights on raised portions of the door handle design.Įmtek's latch nose-bolts, strikeplates, and faceplates are solid brass.Įmtek Helios levers have a fixed stop at the top of their stroke so that it only rotates downward, not up-and-down like most products you find at large home improvement centers.Įmtek Helios levers are supported by springs behind the rosette or backplate that will actively return the door handles back to their original "rest" position to prevent sag. The Emtek Helios lever is forged (not cast or stamped) from solid brass to yield thick and heavy products for a truly solid look and feel.Įmtek Helios levers and rosettes are hand-buffed for maximum polish.įrench Antique, Pewter, and Oil Rubbed Bronze finishes are hand relieved to give each part individual character.Įmtek's Oil Rubbed Bronze finish is underlain with copper.
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